Here is how I made my latest Hogwarts School Robes!
I'm 5'7 so if you are making this for a child or someone much
taller or shorter, you might need more or less fabric.
- black fabric, cotton works fine but thin wool is very nice. (9? yards)
- colored lining fabric, thin cotton is best. (3.5 yards)
dark red for Gryffindor
dark blue for Ravenclaw
dark green for Slytherin
deep yellow for Hufflepuff
I started with simplicity pattern 5840.
First, I needed to change the yoke into two pieces to form a top sholder
The yoke pattern piece is #2. In the pattern, you cut out two yoke pieces and
sew them together in the back. (A yoke is a peice of fabric that rests on top of
your sholders and forms a collar, connecting the front, back and sholder
pieces.) The side with the half circle cut out is where your neck goes. The
shorter straight section is the front and the wider one is the back. The other
curved edge is where the sleeve goes.
The pattern makes a very wide cloak, so for
anyone who weighs less then 300 lbs, you'll need to slim down the cloak so it
will look like the ones in the movies. On the yoke piece this means cutting off
2-5 inches from the sholder seam side. You can see in the following pictures
that my newsprint pattern pieces are slimmer. Measure your own sholder width,
just remember to make the cloak loose enough to wear over other clothes.
To turn the yoke into a top sholder seam, you need to make it into two pattern
pieces, one for the front, one for the back. You need to remember to add a seam
allowance to EACH side of the center seam, the rest of the pattern has a 5/8
inch (~15cm) seam allowance, so that's what I used. Then, transfer any markings
to your new pattern (all those little triangles and circles). Great! Now you have the
first two modified pattern pieces.
Next, we need to change the shape of the sleeve.
The sleeve in the movie
is much less boxy.
So keeping the top of the pattern the same, make a straight line changing the
angle of the bottom seam of the sleeve to be a little wider. Add a curvy edge to
the sleeve opening to give it a widard feel. Make sure you fold your pattern
piece in half so both sides are identical.
Now, for the body piece.
Like with the yoke, we need to slim down the
body. Using the same measurement as before, trim off that much of the pattern
from the center this time.
For the hood, I think I just used the pattern as is.
Assembly(I'll take more pictures the next time I make one)
Ok, now it gets trickier.
Remember how the cloak is lined with a
colored fabric? Well, the lining is both black
and colored. There is a panel of color running down the front opening, about 6-8
inches wide. The inside of the hood and sleeves are colored, and the yoke area
is colored. The rest of the body pieces are black, though.
I didn't want to make any more pattern pieces, so I just made some marks so I
could fold or overlap the right pieces to make the lining and the body.
This picture shows how to layout the front yoke and the body to cut one front
panel. Don't forget to over lap them by 5/8 inch or things wont line up right.
You will need two front panels like this. You can also see how the back
yoke will connect to the front. Similerly, you will need to overlap the bottom edge
of the back yoke with the body and cut out two panels in black for the back of
Cut out two black sleeves and two colored sleeves.
cut out one black hood and one colored hood, making sure to line up the top of
the pattern on a fold.
If you want to make a reversable cloak, you can just use the previously
described pattern pieces and cut one of each color, and see the assemply section
For the colored part of the lining, I made a new pattern piece. Over lap the
front and back part of the yoke to, well, form a yoke again, and attach a 7 inch
strip to the front side that is a long as the body piece. Cut out two in colored
Then I folded the body piece along the straight edge at 6 inches, and cut out
two in black. Then unfold it and cut out two more in black for the lining in the
back. You should be able to see in the picture how the skinny, black body lining
attaches to the colored lining.
Let's start with the outter layer. Sew the two back body pieces up
the center seam.
Sew the two front body panels to the back piece at the sholder
New we are going to put on the sleeves. Pin the sleeve so the dot lines
up with the sholder seam. Follow the directions in the pattern for attaching the
sleeve and sewing the side seam.
Also follow the directions for sewing on the hood.
Now we will assemble the lining. Sew the long colored panel to the
skinny black panel starting at the top corner by the yoke. Sew from that same
corner towards the sleeve hole to attach the top. Clip the corner so the seam
lies flat. Repeat for the other side.
Sew the two back panels together up the center seam.
Sew the two front linings to the back lining on the back yoke
Sew the colored sleeve lining and hood as before.
With right sides together, sew the lining to the cloak by stitching
the hood, down one side of the center seam, around the hem, and up the other
center seam. You'll want to use lots of pins and be really careful that the
hoods and bottom corners line up correctly.
Turn it right side out though one of the sleeves. Unforntuetly, you can't
close up the sleeves this way. (You wouldn't be able to turn it right side out,
trust me!) Fold over the seam allowance and press it with an iron. You can
either top stitch this seam, or sew it by hand, or some other creative way.
Top stichings the other seams would give it more stability. I think I
will try that with my next cloak. And mabye attaching the two layers at the neck
Press. Really, go iron the whole thing. It really makes it look nicer
So, if that didn't take enough time, or maybe if you want to add something to
your old cloak, here are some ideas.